Reloading or factory ammo?
To tune your shooting in to high accuracy the only way to go is to reload your own ammo. There are many very good factory ammo's out there, however the better they are the more expensive they become.
Reloading not only provides accuracy and ability to tune you ammo to your rifle but also drives down the cost of shooting.
There are many pieces required to build your reloading kit and there are many different kits available. The basic set up requires.
A press, Dies, Powder dispenser, primer tool. Togeather with the measuring equipment.
So how to reload
1. To start with you will need a quiet little work space. Concentration and attention to detail is a very important factor. A sturdy table to mount your press and to organize your
equipment will make for a better product. An updated load reference is needed as to not exceed powder charges. I will refer to this as the load manual.
2. After you set up you are ready to begin. I will start with the .308. It is a common and easy round to reload. If you are not using new brass or casings as we call it, range brass or once shot brass will have to be processed. Clean, debur, sized, deprimed and trim to length. New brass is ready for powder, primer and a bullet.
3. Clean brass is important. You can clean them with a tumbler filled with media. Inspect each casing for damage, at the same time debur the neck. Lightly rotate the deburing tool inside and out of the neck of the casing. Any defective ones should be disposed off. Insert the proper shell holder and sizing die. Roll the casings lightly across the lube pad and insert into the shell holder. Run the press once and return and you are now resized. Next, measure the length with a caliper and compare to the load manual. Trim the casing to the proper length with the case trimmer.
4. Resized range brass is now ready to be deprimed. At the same time most depriming dies also expand the neck out as to insert the bullet with ease.
5. Set up the priming mechanism. Range brass will need clean primer pocket. Do this with a primer pocket tool, a couple of rotations and its done. Inspect
the flash hole for any obstructions. Sometimes media will lodge in the flash hole. Poke a small wire or tooth pick to remove. Refer to the load manual for the proper primer. Insert
your brass into the shell holder. Press firmly to seat the primer in the pocket. Run your finger across the bottom of the casing. A properly seated primer should be flush or deeper that
the bottom rim.
6. Look in the load manual for .308. Find the weight of your bullet that you will be using. Next look under the type of powder you are using and cross reference the two. You will notice powder charge listed in grains. The different grains will tell you how fast the bullet will travel in FPS (feet per second). For target practice I recommend a medium charge. Use a powder measure to obtain the charge you want, check it with a scale or weight each charge. Pour the powder into each primed casing.
7. Before seating each bullet, look at the tray of charged casings. The powder level should all be the same. At the same time you are looking for missed or double charged casings. If this is done, just redo that charge. Now you are ready to seat the bullet. Install the bullet seating die. Set the bullet into the bell of the casing and slowly seat the bullet a little. Measure the total length and refer to the load manual for maximum bullet length. Make slow adjustment until the desired length is obtained.
8. After your tray of bullets are complete, wipe down and inspect each round. You will get faster the more you do and learn the short cuts.
9. The last set is to balance off and batch your rounds ready for your next range day. The main thing is to pay attention to what you are doing and you will enjoy shooting your own rounds.